Where All Roads Lead

hink of Italy, and the mind drifts inevitably to … food. Tagliatelle con tartufo nero. Zuppa di pesce. Saltimbocca alla Romana. These days, thinking of Italian food means thinking also of nutrition. The so-called Mediterranean diet, with its essentials of olive oil, pasta, tomatoes, and red wine, is championed for heart health and longevity by doctors and nutritionists around the world. What better place than Italy to study the science of food?

Rome, in particular, is an ideal place for seeing nutrition in various contexts: public health, quality of life, art and culture. Rome the eternal, rich repository of historical achievement, vibrant 21st-century city, is not only home to some of the world's best food, but also the location of a number of world health organizations.

Penn State nutrition professor Claudia Probart has lived in Rome for the past year, working on problems of hunger and international health at the U.N.'s Food and Agriculture Organization. This summer, as director of the International Program in Nutrition, she is leading a contingent of students--mostly nutrition majors—in exploring the markets, gardens, and restaurants of Rome and its surrounding regions. The object: To better grasp both the science of food and food's many-layered role in society and culture.

This July, our roving associate editor, Dave Pacchioli, joins the group to see what he can learn.